Bolas de Fuego: Nejapa, El Salvador

Bolas de Fuego is a long celebrated tradition in Nejapa, El Salvador; the stories behind which, coming from geographic and religious elements. The first tells of an eruption of the volcano, ElPlayon, in 1658, which forced the people of the old town, Nixapa, to leave that place and migrate to what is now Nejapa. The second, tells of a religious saint, San Jeronimo battling the devil with balls of fire. Personally, I find the second story more convincing.

Either way, every August 31st, the men of Nejapa enlist onto two teams, this year, one composed by the recently victorious FMLN political party;(conveniently the one that, just 25 or so years ago, the US, pledged $100 million, to keep from winning the civil war, and control of El Salvador; attributing to the 70,000 lives lost, but we'll save that story and sentiment for another post). They dress up, covering their arms and legs, and gather in a small, dusty, plain orange-walled weight room, to paint their own and one anothers' faces. This is where a group of friends and I, found ourselves Wednesday, a few hours before the firefight.

The two teams square off on the town's main, modestly paved two-laned road, each taking an end, some ridiculous amount of gasoline, and more than 5,000 tightly wound nylon and cloth balls; which they will light on fire and presume, round after round, to charge one-another, throwing these 'balls of fire' as their means of forcing the other team to retreat.

On the fringes, we spectators literally rode the shoulders of one another to observe, and at times, get caught up in the makeshift spiritual warfare. Like few Salvadoran events, I had the privilege of joining an Ohioan native named Justin who lives and works in my community. He found us a short brick wall, home to the vendors selling cheap Pilsner and soda immediately behind the sidewalk bordering the street; which was perfect for shooting video, yet awful for balance, and living. We eventually were pushed back by the crowds attempts to escape the chaos, and Justin took it as a sign that we needed to get into the street. I played textbook younger brother, and watched his back as he watched mine for the thirty minutes we made believe, we worked for National Geographic. Sincerely, a fantastic experience.

In the end, I can report no major injuries, other than the four inch bald spot on my right forearm. These characters speak more than I can tell, so I'll let them do the talking.